DIY “Super Clean” Composting Toilet — No Smell, No Chemicals, No Plumbing
- Megan Christian
“We love the composting toilet. It’s so clean, and we can’t believe it doesn’t smell!”
What is a composting toilet?
A composting toilet is a waterless toilet that works by digesting waste through composting by encouraging aerobic bacteria to break solids down. This type of toilet is a practical option for an outhouse in a structured camping situation.
Here are the DIY steps for how we built the composting toilet system for the cabin and campsites on the CSC property and how we solved one of the biggest concerns… the smell.
Completely Minimize the Odors...!
After doing much of the same research that many of you have probably done, and after working with a half-dozen different systems (some top name over-the-counter), we always ran into something that made the process either disgusting or problematic.
As we solved these challenges one at a time, we developed a new system that incorporated the best of others’ ideas along with our own trouble-shooting solutions. Here are our 8 Steps to the Super-Clean Composting Toilet System…
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A quick guide to our composting toilet system.
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We are so relieved to have this system in place now. We have found it to be a pleasure to use and easy to perform maintenance on. Even our students or guests often comment positively about it.
The Basics of the System and Scalability
Our primary goals in designing this system were to:
1. completely contain any harmful waste,
2. make it easy to clean and handle, and
3. be able to scale the system to different sizes for different applications.
We currently have our system set up in two ways; one using larger (26-gallon) bins that are transported with a small front-end loader when full, and the other, as illustrated above, using 5-gallon buckets that anyone can easily handle (with gloves).
The 26-gal. Tote System
We designed this larger system for the shower house at Bending Oak Permaculture Farm in Youngstown, OH. The last thing anyone wants is a stinky composting toilet in the same place you are showering, so it had to be bug-free and odorless.
The bins we use are heavy-duty 26-gallon totes found at most box stores. They are the most robust containers we can easily find so that they can handle the weight of the contents when full and can also handle the weathering from 1-2 years of outside storage in the woods during the cold composting process. Do not use lightweight plastic bins. They will break and release the contents. Ugh.
Behind the building is an easy access area where the waste bins slide easily in and out from under the toilets.
We made the toilets by cutting large cement culvert tubes to a comfortable sitting height. Since concrete is porous, it is vital to seal the interior of the tubes so that liquid/odors cannot permeate. We then affixed standard toilet seats and secured them over a hole we cut in the floor between two joists. Underneath here is where we slide in the totes. When you look down the toilet, you can see a bit of daylight (fresh air moving too) and the wood shavings covering everyone’s previous business.
Visitors cover their waste after each use with a scoop of fresh carbon material (our woodchip blend) down the hole. All the toilet paper and human waste goes into the toilet but NOTHING ELSE. Other hygiene products go into a closed trash container.
Since the poop and woodchips tend to pile up a bit in the middle, the toilet paper rolls to the edges, so we periodically slide the bins out and turn the contents using a compost auger. This helps to evenly distribute the entire contents, including the toilet paper, poop, and urine that settles to the bottom of the container.
We really like the standard-length compost auger from Lotech Products for turning the contents of the totes and have purchased their 52″ auger for the 55-gallon drums. These augers are very well made, will never rust (made from stainless Steel), and should last a lifetime.
These long-handled tools keep us at a safe distance from the content of the buckets or bins to make the turning process more agreeable for ourselves. Before augering, we sometimes spritz the surrounding toilet paper with water to assist it in breaking it down if there is not already enough moisture in the container.
During the first few turns of the auger one might notice some solid waste. However, this quickly disperses amongst the shavings as it is turned in and disappears altogether, making the entire experience less unpleasant than you may think!
Check out this video of Bill demonstrating the mixing process during one of our PDC courses at Bending Oak.
After turning, if the bin isn’t full, we cover the surface with a fresh layer of wood shavings and reposition it back under the building.
We know this seems like it would be an awful chore, but honestly, it’s kind of magical how it works.
It is remarkable how little odor this system has when appropriately used. The carbon material is the key here. As long as we add enough carbon to absorb the liquid and completely disperse the solid waste, the odor is kept to a minimum.
Keeping things adequately covered also prevents flies and pests from occupying our bins. Despite being open to the outside air, we do not have issues with insects.
Once full, we auger one last time and incorporate a mixture of beneficial bacteria and fungi into the water that we sprinkle over the mix. These inoculants, which are usually a dry powder, are available all over.
The added microbes kickstart the cold composting process and help ensure enough biological activity is present to break everything down.
Right under the lip of the bin, we drill a series of tiny holes to allow for air exchange at the surface to ensure our microbes have enough oxygen to do their work. No liquids ever leave the bin except for humidity. We then seal the totes with their lids, date them, and use our front-end loader to transfer them to their out-of-the-way resting place where they can cold compost undisturbed for 1-2 years.
The oxygenated environment and beneficial microbes ensure that the human waste completely breaks down and harmful pathogens are eliminated by the end of this process.
What remains is crumbly, nutrient-rich humus with no unpleasant odor. We can then spread it on the forest floor to benefit our woodlot and breathe easy knowing that our waste is now feeding the soil, as it was always meant to do.
Here are some Additional Details on the Five-gallon Bucket System
It is convenient to have a smaller-capacity system. For that, we use five or six-gallon buckets that we have set up in repurposed portapotties.
The logistics are mostly the same, except in these smaller-scale systems, we also have a stand-up urinal that diverts urine outside.
For the urinal, we have attached a hose to the drain that snakes through a hole we drilled into the tank of the portapotty and runs outside, sloping downwards towards the base of a tree.
Where the hose empties, we have dug a hole about 12-15 inches deep and backfilled it with woodchips, where the resident bacteria/microbes consume all the nutrients in urine and clean and filter it before it seeps into the ground. As a result, the surrounding trees benefit from the added nutrients and water, and we deal with less volume of liquid waste in the bucket.
Over a couple of years of usage, we found it helpful to attach a screen over the outside end of the tube to prevent small rodents from entering. We also attach the end of the hose to a concrete block to be sure it does not pop out of the ground.
The bucket is placed down into the former tank of the portapotty on a platform of bricks to sit closely underneath the seat’s lid.
We attached a makeshift plastic guard under the seat lid to ensure no urine escapes the bucket’s rim.
We have found pine shavings to be nicer to use than bulk woodchips because they look cleaner, are easy to purchase & handle, and leave a fresh scent.
Once the bucket is 1/2 to 3/4 full, we pull it out and empty it into a 55-gallon plastic barrel we call the “Digester” and use the auger to incorporate the new waste. Just for good measure, we throw in a couple of handfuls of our own topsoil to ensure the drum’s contents have our own soil microbe community present.
Over time, the drum contents drop significantly as the organic matter continually breaks down. Once full, we let the contents rest for at least a year.
Having to handle buckets and empty them into the digester means more close contact with the waste in this system than in the larger bin system. Still, plastic gloves and basic hygiene after working on the toilets eliminate possible contamination.
Because of its 5-gallon capacity, it does demand more attention than the 26-gallon system, but the frequency at which we are emptying, turning, and checking makes the toilet exceptionally clean and odor-free. It is a perfect smaller-scale setup. We use it in our camping area, where it can easily handle two people using it for a weekend before needing maintenance.
It is so valuable to be able to process waste safely, efficiently, and comfortably on-site. We get fantastic feedback from our campers.
Our Super-Clean Composting Toilet Systems are highly approachable from both the user and maintenance end. They have proven to work incredibly well for us.
Please shoot us any questions you might have, and if you create one of these systems, please share your successes and challenges. We’re all learning from each other just as we took the best of what others have done to make our system work well for us.
Cheers… Midwest Permaculture Team
Download The 8-Steps to the Super-Clean Composting Toilet System
A quick guide to our composting toilet system.
Enter your email address to receive access. By signing up, you'll receive occasional email newsletters with valuable permaculture insights and updates on our courses. We respect your privacy and won't send spam. You can unsubscribe at any time.
36 thoughts on “DIY “Super Clean” Composting Toilet — No Smell, No Chemicals, No Plumbing”
We are looking at different outhouse options and I would like to know more about how your system would be designed and built.
Thank you for the information.
You should check out the download. It’s less about the principles than the process. The humanure handbook is probably the best resource. Let us know if you have any questions.
Looking forward to trying this!
Hello. This is AWESOME! What are the actual bacterial and fungi products you’re adding to your system? Can you provide their Brand and name, or even links to the products? Much obliged, Carole from Oregon
Look closely on the picture, it’s Bio-Coat Gold. I’m sure there are lots of other options you could buy, healthy soil or even live pickle juice would probably be just as good. Technically poop would be full of your own gut bacterial too!
Oh I love the idea of using live pickle juice as the bio feed. The juice produces good guy bacterial, why wouldn’t it be great for composting. Could you also add Green waste and animals manure?
The other question I have is having enough sawdust. If we are to do this long term as our only toilet, where do we obtain enough sawdust? In Australia I am finding that sawmills are selling it, due to people FINALLY realising that compost is soil food.
I’m sure you could add green waste and manure, you would want to be sure you have enough carbon to balance it out as those would all be nitrogen sources.
You don’t only have to use sawdust. Generally any carbon source, dry brown material, would do. Paper shreds, shredded leaves, or wood shavings might all be the easiest to come by. But who knows, we all have different things going on around us and it keeps changing. You have to have a watchful eye and be creative!
Thank you! I’ve ordered the compost auger and look forward to using the 26 gallon method for my Teepees soon!
I’ve been using a basic composting bucket toilet system for about 5 years and was already vermicomposting at the time, so I just decided to start dumping my buckets into my worm compost bin, bought several more and made a stackable system…worms just move to the top bin when they’re out of food…eventually the bottom one gets emptied into the garden and added on top. I’m currently building a respectable outhouse and want to incorporate this by using a 28 gallon tote under the floor with a hole in the lid…2 5 gallon buckets (bottoms cut out) will join to make the poop chute pipe. I guess each new bin will need a scoop of worms from the top bin to start the composting and I’ll have to insulate around it in the winter *coastal GA, so only occasional freezes…5 years and my worms are still alive. Benifits to this system are black soldier fly larva…they eat poop like crazy! I’m still figuring it all out but your experience is helpful!
Thanks for sharing your experience too!
Any advise on how exactly to install the concrete tube into the floor, resting somehow on the floor joists? I’m imagining a lip of some sort integrated into the shape of the concrete would help it rest on the floor joists and hover over the bin, but make it so poop never touches the wood joists (the tube extending at least a few inches below any wood joist). I think I can figure it out but if you had any hints I’d be grateful. Thanks for your unique design. I think it is marvelous.
I’m not sure how it was done exactly at bending oak but surely you could put up a plastic liner on the joists to keep them from rotting.
If you don’t have a front end loader do you have a recommendation for a pot lifter (manual hand truck sorta thing that landscapers us to lift potted trees etc) that would lift the 26 gallon bins?
Just a hand truck sounds like the thing to use. Or, I’d even design it with smaller bins, like a 5-gallon bucket. You’d have to empty it more but it’s worth it if that makes it so you can handle it. You could dump them into a larger bin or a barrel to rest.
Svakako moram probati ovu metodu. Namjera mi je napraviti mali kamp recimo 20 ak osoba Max.
“I definitely have to try this method. I intend to make a small camp, say 20 or so people Max.” Thanks for letting us know Luka, it’s worked well for us.
Just curious, after reading the Humanure Handbook, it seems like it’s pretty crucial for the compost to reach high enough temperatures in order to kill off all harmful pathogens. Have you used a compost thermometer to verify your compost is getting hot enough using this system? And why do you leave the compost material in bins instead of emptying them into a more traditional compost pile?
We are using a different technique for processing the waste, moldering instead of composting. It’s an aerobic process that doesn’t heat up. From our research: “Moldering is the slow decomposition of organic material in the presence of air. There is no significant temperature increase, so disease organisms are not killed by heat during the moldering of human waste. Nevertheless, worms and micro-organisms consume and compete with pathogens, reducing their prevalence to levels commonly found in topsoil.” We still don’t use the resulting product on food crops.
We have been using composting toilets for a number of years and found them really easy to use . We had opened a lodge a year pre covid in 2019 when i left my ‘ normal ‘ job as a public health expert in Malawi i ended up going back to work as a result of covid and had to close the lodge ( rented premises) . We are now starting an eco camp for backpackers in Malawi on our own property . And we have 3 composting toilets made from upcycled bedside cabinets and local reed mats for the structure . Managing the waste has been a worry when we open ( in a few weeks) especially with campers. Your post is really helpful and we will be certainly now using large drums to manage the waste matter.. thanks so much ! We will spread the word
I have some land and an old outhouse would it be practical to use the 27 gallon system as we go there and do the prepping for our off grid homestead
Every composting toilet I’ve ever experienced, provided it is well maintained, has been better than any outhouse or pit toilet I’ve used. I’d say go for it!
Thank you so much for for all the great info – itʻs super helpful. However, I am curious about something. Iʻve seen other systems use a urine diverter to help separate any liquid waste from solid waste, but I noticed yours doesnʻt. In your opinion, would there be any advantage to separating urine out? I was thinking that perhaps the composting time might be shortened if there was less moisture present??? At the very least the bin wouldnʻt fill up as quickly if urine drained into another container…
Also do you think that the location of the toilet might make a difference in terms of the composting process, e.g. a hot humid place vs. a cold dry one? I live in a tropical location with high humidity, so I was thinking that maybe if the urine is left in the compost mix then with the added humidity it might take longer to get to that nice dry compost like in your video? I dunno… Iʻm just curious to get your take on it. Thanks again.
I think the main advantage for separating urine out would be it’s usefulness. It makes a good fertilizer when diluted. Composting is moisture dependent, worst case you would have to add more cover material to balance out the extra urine. If there was too much urine and not enough cover it would go anaerobic and get stinky.
Composting would only happen if the temperatures were sufficient. If a pile doesn’t heat up, over the winter it will freeze and go dormant. Tropical locations could probably get away with less time to compost overall but I’m not sure of exact numbers.
Question: if you were more than 200 yards away from any water source and no wells or springs were nearby, could you in theory use this method by just digging a vault a few feet deep and leaving the waste for several years, while moving the outhouse/reclaimed portapotty/whatever, atop it a few times, perhaps by putting it on wheels? That could eliminate the need for augers, tractors, and manual handling of the waste
I suppose that would be possible, I don’t know as much about pit toilets. However, the whole point of handling the “waste” is to convert it into something useful that can be moved to where that use is the greatest. Our tendency to not want to be anywhere near toilets and their contents means that particular nutrient stream is completely lost. I suggest investigating the permaculture principal “produce no waste” to further learn about why we take that approach.
Do you have a way to do a small system for a trailer we have parked and the 2 of us use it for a week at at a time every couple of months
I think a bucket system would work out well for your situation. There would be some aspects that would need to be different from ours. I’d recommend https://humanurehandbook.com/ to help you sort it out.
What product/additive
do you use that you are calling “microbes”? Thanks.
Hi Robin, We have used BioDigester™ from https://advancingecoag.com/product/biodigester-acre-p6850060/. Hope that helps!
would something like milk kefir work as a bacterial supplement for this digester?
We’ve never tried anything like that but it’s reasonable to assume that any live fermentation product stands a reasonable chance of working. We’d love to hear about your experiences if you try it!
This is very clear and easy to follow. I have just bought a remote piece of conservation land, (in New Zealand), and this gives me confidence in going forward to establish pleasant living conditions. Thank you.
Hi, this looks perfect for our cottage. I’m thinking about the 5 gallon/55 gallon combination.
Once you have the 55 gallon full, and it’s sat for the year, how do you generally empty it? I imagine by that point it’s quite heavy.
After it’s composted it’s just the same as any other compost. It will reduce quite a bit. You could shovel it out into buckets or a wheelbarrow and distribute it to appropriate places. You could also move the whole thing with a hand truck if the ground is suitable.
How long would it take a family of 6 to fill a 55 gallon drum?
Based on our experience you can figure about a 1/2 gallon per poop including the cover material, pee gets absorbed. You probably don’t want to fill any container to the brim, we dump our 5-gallon buckets when they’ve got about 3.5 gallons in them, a 55-gallon drum you might fill up only 50 gallons. That’s still 100 deposits, about 16-17 days. Keep in mind it’s supposed to compost aerobically, that’s why we use the compost auger. A great resource is https://humanurehandbook.com/.